Charles B. Jones
Managing Editor
Cambodian Online

 Information

24-Aug-2005
Last Edited

The Mysterious Mekong Dolphins, Amazing Ancient Temples and the Mighty Mekong
by Charlie - Part 1 - Part 2 - Part 3 - Mekong River Cruise Montage 1

Phanna's family with wonderful smiles and waves say goodbye to us as we catch a motorcycle taxi to the docks.

A couple of minutes later we pulled up to what was obviously a developing throng of people waiting to catch the various ferries that seemed to be heading out in the next few minutes.  As it was only 10 AM and the expected departure time was 10:30, I took a quick hike around the block, snapping some more photos of both buildings and people.

I returned a few moments later, and it seemed the dock had swelled to it was in fact now occupying the riverfront street, with packages, bundles, construction material and food stuffs appearing from everywhere.

As I had been told the boat would be appearing from the north on its way down from the Laos border with Cambodia, I kept an eye in that direction to make sure I caught it as it neared the dock.  I wasn't however prepared for the site that was to come into view and as it turned from the main channel and headed towards the shore, as it seemed that it would capsize at any moment.

As I stared in disbelief at the "express" ferry I could only imagine what the slow boat might look like.  Was this really going to be the vessel that was to take me and Phanna down the Mekong?

As I had already purchase my $6 ticket (negotiated down from $7) and Phanna his (Khmer price of 15,000 Riel or $3.75), we obviously had no choice as we needed to get back to Phnom Penh and unless we waited for a weekday, the boat probably wouldn't be any less crowded.

 To Chan Thel and Phanna at the Kratie Municipal Dock

After saying our farewells to Phanna's friend who is also an English teacher and part-time tour guide in Kratie, we boarded the boat, crawling our way along the port side cat-walk only inches from the water.  As few people had left the heavily laden craft, we had to go back as far as where the engine's exhaust stacks rose from out of the engine room where we climbed up onto the roof which for the remainder of our journey served as our outpost on the Mekong.

It is hard to see the boat under the sea of humanity boarding the ferry.

As we departed Kratie port and set out down the Mekong, it wasn't long before we were moving along at a pretty good clip, far faster than anything else we came across.

Although everything along the journey was interesting, including the numerous stops along the shore to load and unload passengers and cargo, what was particularly interesting early on in the trip was the mid-channel docking at noon with another express boat coming up the Mekong.  Done smoothly and quickly, if you hadn't been watching the bow (front) of the boat you probably wouldn't have noticed it happening.

Mekong Express boats docking in mid-channel.

What was also interesting to watch was the young girl walking along the very narrow "catwalk" of the boat selling oranges as it was hurling full-speed down the Mekong.  What made me wonder of the longevity of her career was the fact that she chose to neither tie herself off to anything or hold onto what rail there was.  Her faith in the boat's buoyancy or the captain's capability or maybe just Buddha was pretty amazing....

At 1PM we had gone as far south as Steang Trong where you notice steep cliffs on the western bank of the river.  It was only a half hour later we arrived Kompong Cham, crossing under the huge Japanese bridge spanning the waters of this mighty river.

After a bit of negotiating ($10 for the rear seat), we found ourselves a taxi and were soon winding our way out of the port taxi area and onto the road south to Phnom Penh.  At 3:30 PM we passed the Chroy Chang Var Taxi Station just to the east of another Japanese bridge that spans the Mekong in Phnom Penh and were soon once again where we started, the Crystal Net Internet Cafe on Sisowath Quay.

 ...more to come!  Part 1 - Part 2 - Part 3

Second Draft: September 10, 2004-Please be patient!

Sophanna Chheang (Phanna) can be reached in Phnom Penh at the Crystal Net Internet Cafe on Sisowath Quay (riverfront) or by phone at 012-725-032 or 011-445-464. He can also be reached via email at phanna_ratana2000@yahoo.com .  He is wonderful and knowledgeable young man who speaks fantastic English and is studying International Relations and Law.