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The Editor
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27-Aug-2005
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Travel Notes and Tips
Updated September 2005

Banks - There are now ATM machines in the country that accept international cards. Check our info in the banking section.

Although I have no confirmation of this, there seems to be no form of insurance form the government and should a bank go belly up, you are simply out of whatever money was in that institution.  Rumor also has it that “Canadia” Bank is one of the more stable banks and is endorsed/used by the Cambodian Prime Minister.

Money/Currency
Everything is quoted in dollars, including food, bus tickets and goods.  Riel is only used for "small money" and change (there are no coins in the country).  Anything less than a dollar is returned in change as Riel.  In June 2004, the exchange rate was approximately 4,000 Riel to the dollar and 100,000 Riel to the 1,000 Thai Baht note.  Also note that you will always get much better exchange rates at gold shops. 

Local Salaries - Remember, wages are low here and people are use to $30 to $60 a month if they have a job at all.  Handing over $2 to a moto driver who is going to take you 5 city blocks is a small fortune.  Use your generosity sparingly so those that have to live here don't get hassled so much.

Motorcycle Taxis – These guys will go just about anywhere for $1 USD or 4,000 Riel.  If you bargain at all, you can go a long way for half that which will still be considerably higher than what a local will have to pay....so don't feel bad to lower the price. (Locals will only pay 1000 riel for the same trip.)

Cyclos (three wheel bicycles) - Seems the going rate to rent these by the hour is of course $1 or 4,000 Riel in Phnom Penh. Good chance you will be overcharged taking one of these...

Internet – The Internet in Phnom Penh is far cheaper than in Siem Reap with most places charging 1,500 Riel per hour compared to Siem Reap at 4,000 Riel per hour.  Although it makes no sense, you will often see a sign that states the rate in Riel at 1,500 an hour and in USD, $1.00 (4,000 Riel) !! 

Angkor Wat MonkCopyright © 2003-2004 The Editor
All rights reserved.

Dangerous?
– Although I have not been there, I have heard the area to the west of Boeng Kak Lake in Phnom Penh is rumored to be avoided.  No idea what is there or if this is true.  There have also been incidents (less than 10) of sling-shot attack on western males walking along the riverfront in early 2004.  You also hear frequent stories about motorcycle robberies very late at night when foreigners are returning from taxi girl bars such as Martinis.

Cost of Living – If you stay away from the bars, you can easily live on $5 USD a day, including a guesthouse room.  Local meals of rice, pork, a soup and a small salad can be as little as 3,000 Riel (.74 cents) with many rooms available at simple guest houses in the $2-3 range.

Visas- The visa process seems to be rather straight forward if you wish to come to live and work. See our visa section.

Water - Seems to be a large disagreement from what the government contends and what locals practice.  All locals that I have spoke to contend the water is not safe; just the opposite of what the government maintains.  Stay on the safe side and drink bottled water.  Large plastic bottles should cost you no more than 500 Riel per bottle or 2,000 Riel for a six pack.

Roads – The “roads” throughout the country have gotten considerably better in 2004 with it possible to travel nearly 4 hours north out of Phnom Penh to Siem Reap on pavement.  You will still have another 1.5-2 hours of dirt roads and missing bridges getting to the Thai border, but it sure better than it use to be.

Between Phnom Penh to the beaches at Sihanoukville, there is no problem whatsoever and this is probably one of the better roads in the country.

The road however between the border town of Poi Pet to Siem Reap however is still horrible although better than what it was.  When there is asphalt/pavement, you can expect pavement between massive and very frequent potholes.  Where they are bridges, there is usually no pavement before or after it.  When there are no bridges, expect pavement.  There seems to be no rhyme or reason to what is being done and where. 

Expect "seasick" bags to be available in the larger bus company buses between Poi Pet to Siem Reap!


The sign over the highway entering Siem Reap from Angkor Wat

The National Museum - (2 blocks off the riverfront in Phnom Penh)

Cambodian National Museum Phnom Penh

The grounds and building of the museum are very beautiful and serene.  If you are coming up from the Tonle Sap river on Street 178, go past the “tourist entrance” and pull into the back where you can park your motorcycle for 500 Cambodian Riel; than walk around the side of the building towards the front entrance where you will be charge $3.00 as a foreigner and 500 Riel if you are a Cambodian. (Actually both tickets are identical.)

Also be aware that you will not be allowed to take any photos or video within the museum.  I tried to discuss this issue with them and explain that all museums around the world allow this to no avail. 

Street 130 - Phnom Penh

Angkor Thom book Shop Phnom Penh CambodiaAlong Street 130  heading away from the Tonle Sap River you will notice about 6 wonderful bookstores on your right, with my favorite being the Angkor Thom Book Store at Number 149.

As you continue along the river front towards the "Japanese Bridge" that crosses the Tonle Sap River, you will see the "Rendez Vous Cafe" (their spelling) on the corner of Street 108 and Sisoway Quay, just before you reach the large opening that is the end of Russian Boulevard.

I

The Russian Market in Phnom Penh

As I am into maps, I found a couple of unusual military type maps of the region and after starting at $14 USD, walked away with them $8.  Also found a knife I liked and although I didn't buy it, the price started at $10 but I could have gotten it for $6.  The quality was a bit suspect though so I opted not to purchase it.

After having a bottle of coke in the market (1000 Riel), I left there and walked down the street where I fund an Internet cafe across the street from what was obviously a large technical university where I used the Internet at 1,500 Riel per hour with extremely good performance (although packed with students!).

At 16:00 I left and after negotiating another 3,000 Riel motorcycle ride back to the FCC (Foreign Correspondent's Club) on the riverfront, my head was once again spinning from looking at all the sights and sounds of the city.

As I passed a secondary school, I was amazed to see rows of students and teachers lined up in front of their school, and as I passed, to hear them singing in perfect English,  Christmas songs!  I didn't know whether to laugh or cry and without a doubt, this left me with one of the best feelings I have had in many months in southeast Asia.....Charlie

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